I bought a spare another remote control in case I lost the remote control, or something unexpectedly happen. I was thinking if I can enhance the signal delivery, I will be able to capture the significant moment in different circumstances.
So I decide to refit the remote.
I cut off the infrared trigger from the remote board and do the soldering on it.
Solder the wire on the board but unfortunately the soldering heat burns the board.
I destroyed my first remote.
With my second remote control, Ideally, two wires are soldered on board like the bottom picture does. I was partially success the soldering, but I eventually screwed the chip board up when I try to twist those wires, hocking up to the metal cables in my car....!
After the unsuccessful experiences, I gave up soldering on board, using "blue tack" in stead of the soldering. Although the blue tack can solves the stitching problem, it's too soft and flexible, any slightly move from the wire can change the blue tack's position, and affecting the connectivity.
Therefore, it's necessary to put something in between the remote case and the board to consolidate the wires' postures.
The infrared head cut from the screwed up remote.
The signal reception is much better than relying on a mirror reflecting the infrared.
However, I set up a mirror in case the refitted remote does not work. So a spare remote is a must.
BTW, thank you Alex for giving me a free remote control.
So I decide to refit the remote.
I cut off the infrared trigger from the remote board and do the soldering on it.
Solder the wire on the board but unfortunately the soldering heat burns the board.
I destroyed my first remote.
With my second remote control, Ideally, two wires are soldered on board like the bottom picture does. I was partially success the soldering, but I eventually screwed the chip board up when I try to twist those wires, hocking up to the metal cables in my car....!
After the unsuccessful experiences, I gave up soldering on board, using "blue tack" in stead of the soldering. Although the blue tack can solves the stitching problem, it's too soft and flexible, any slightly move from the wire can change the blue tack's position, and affecting the connectivity.
Therefore, it's necessary to put something in between the remote case and the board to consolidate the wires' postures.
The infrared head cut from the screwed up remote.
The signal reception is much better than relying on a mirror reflecting the infrared.
However, I set up a mirror in case the refitted remote does not work. So a spare remote is a must.
BTW, thank you Alex for giving me a free remote control.